Istanbul Shopping

Istanbul Shopping information

Best Areas

Shopping in the city is divided into a few main areas, all of which are worth exploring to gain the full flavour of Istanbul's varied shopping experience. The 400-year-old Grand Bazaar (Kapali Çarsi) is the best place in town for carpets, leather goods, smaller antiques and all kinds of "ethnic" souvenirs from pointed toe slippers to copperware and lacquered boxes. When buying carpets you are expected to bargain hard, while for less expensive items it's best to shop around and get an idea of prices before making a purchase. The Grand Bazaar is no amiable Saturday market but a serious place of business. You'll get the hard sell if you show the slightest interest in anything and you'll get short shrift if you waste anyone's time. The 1km long pedestrianised main street of Istiklal Caddesi Beyoglu is home to innumerable clothing shops ranging from expensive luxury stores like Vakko at 123-5 to the market stalls in the Terkoz Cikmazi alley, which sell seconds of Western branded goods for a few dollars or less. Nisantasi is a middle-class district to the north of the centre and the place to head for serious clothes shopping. Most big Turkish and Western brands can be found here - some like DKNY and Armani even have their own stores. Further up the metro line in Levent, is the city's most up-market shopping mall, "Akmerkez" where big Turkish clothing brands like Beymen have their flagship stores. Get there by the Taksim-Levent metro line, alighting at Osmanbey. Eminönü, the area downhill from Sultanahmet on the Golden Horn, is the place for food shopping. The huge Spice Bazaar (Misir Carsisi) has a huge range of Turkish delight and other sweets, many of which are touted as aphrodisiacs. In the surrounding streets you'll find plenty of stores selling local cheeses, olives and sucuk - a kind of Turkish sausage. Two co-operative shops set into next door's New Mosque (Yeni Camii) are the cheapest places in town for olives and olive oil.

Markets

The Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar have a colourful atmosphere and the stall holders are lively and garrulous personalities who enjoy the banter of the barter as much as getting one over on tourists. They will give you the hard sell though and quite often you have to be firm in your resolve or you may find yourself haggling over something you don't even want. The main advice is to browse casually to get an idea of what you should be paying, and, although bartering is a private transaction, you should try to discreetly observe the rudiments before trying it yourself. When engaged in a bartering transaction don't lose your temper, and stick to your guns. Start low and don't go above the price threshold you've set yourself. It's quite acceptable to walk away if you don't get the deal you want. If the dealer agrees to sell you know you're paying enough so don't buy into any emotional blackmail to elicit more cash from you.

What to Buy

Since the Turkish Lira devalued by 150% in February 2001, virtually everything produced in the country is good value. This means practically anything you can lay your hands on, even international goods, are likely to be a bargain, and you should keep an eye out no matter what kind of store you're in. Clothing, textiles and leather goods offer especially good value but you'll find prices considerably lower if you shop away from the main tourist areas. More authentically Turkish goods include carpets and kilims but these range from the merely dear to the vastly expensive. For larger items you may also have to pay shipping costs, so bear them in mind if you've got your heart set on a genuine Turkish rug. If you are looking for something very special, take note that - as with all antiquities - it is illegal to take antique carpets out of the country. The shop should be able to advise you on whether your chosen item is allowed to be exported. Items under 100 years old but which are evidently not modern should have an accompanying certificate to prove their exact age. Also popular is copperware - pots, pans and jugs - which can be found anywhere in the Grand Bazaar. Local craftsmen make many items by hand and it is often possible to barter the price down greatly, an experience that makes the item all the more special. Also look out for earthenware and traditional Turkish gold jewellery, often available at extremely low prices. No tourist's shopping list in Istanbul is complete without the addition of a box of Turkish delight. There are myriad varieties of the distinctive sweet available from stores in the Spice Bazaar. Finally if you're thinking of taking back some Turkish Raki (aniseed spirit similar to Greek ouzo) or wine it's worth bearing in mind that prices in Istanbul Airport's "Duty Free" shops are way above those in town. It is the same story with tobacco and ideally you should stock up before you leave town.

Opening Hours

Most shops are open from 08h00 or 09h00 to late evening - typically 20h00 or 21h00. More religious shopkeepers will close for an hour on Friday lunchtime for Friday prayers at the Mosque. In some areas many shops are closed on Sundays.

Tax Refund

Value-added tax is nearly always included in quoted prices. When returning from Turkey, tourists can apply for a tax refund depending on the type of goods bought. Please note that not all shops participate in tax-back schemes, so you are advised to ask before you purchase. In Turkey, the minimum purchase to qualify for a refund is TRY118. To reclaim tax you need to request a VAT refund request form when you make a purchase, which states the amount of refund due. Customs officials must stamp these documents as you leave the country and the refund will be processed and sent to you. Alternatively, you can purchase goods from shops participating in the Tax-free Shopping programme (look out for the Tax-free Shopping logo displayed in the window). Simply show your passport when you make a purchase and you will be given a Tax-free Shopping Cheque to the refund you are owed. As you leave the country, customs officials will stamp your cheques. You can claim your refund from the Tax-free Shopping desk or have the refund sent to you.