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Eating Out
Guide to Drinking and Dining in Montreal
Montreal deservedly has the
reputation of being one of the world's great gastronomic
destinations. French influence is evident throughout the local
cuisine and Quebec cooking has moved far from its hearty origins and
now boasts sophistication and style, combined with modern North
American flair and innovation.
Other cuisines are perhaps surprisingly well represented with
Portuguese, Italian and Chinese eateries, among countless others,
competing for your taste buds. A distinctive feature of Montreal
dining is the "apportez votre vin" (bring your own bottle)
establishments, mainly clustered along Avenue Duluth. They offer a
convenient way to cut the price of your meal.
In Montreal food seems to be available on every corner, although the
Plateau and Rue St Denis offer the best selections. Lunch is a good
time to try some of Montreal's famed specialities.
Since the 1930s the Hebrew community has been producing famous
smoked-meat stacked sandwiches. The most famous deli in town is
Schwartz's Hebrew Delicatessen. The queue stretches out of the door
on weekends. Expect 70-year-old decor, surly service and the finest
smoked meat sandwiches in town. 3895 Boulevard St Laurent.
Montreal rivals New York for the title of world bagel capital. Try
the produce of the top bakery at St Viateur Bagel & Café, 1127
Avenue de Mont-Royal Est.
Montreal's most celebrated bar food is "poutine": a bowl of fries
topped with gravy and melted cheese curds. It tastes a lot better
than it sounds. For a really authentic experience, try Poutine at
Quebec's own fast food chain La Belle Province. Outlets throughout
the city. Try the one at 1018 St Catherine Est. Metro: Place des
Arts / St Laurent.
Please note that restaurant meal prices are not inclusive of tax or
tip. The tax level in Quebec is approximately 15%. On top of that
you are expected tip at least around 15%. Therefore, add 30% to the
displayed prices to gauge whether you want to eat in a certain
establishment.
PRICE GUIDE: (average cost of a main course):
= less than CAD15,
= CAD15 - CAD30,
= CAD30+
French
Tocque
900, Place Jean-Paul-Riopelle.
Tel: +1 (1)514-499-2084
Feted by international food critics, since 1993 chef Normand Laprise
has been using the freshest, locally grown ingredients to flavour
his innovative creations. Try a tasting menu comprised of unusual
fusion dishes such as princess scallops and green apple mousse. Or
trust the chef by selecting a mystery menu. Whatever the dish, an
evening at this restaurant will be unforgettable. Closed Sun and
Mon. Book in advance for weekends.
L'Express
3927 Rue St Denis. Metro: Sherbrooke
Tel: +1 (1)514-845-5333
A Montreal classic. This Parisian style bistro consists of one
narrow, long room with mirrored walls and marble tables. The waiters
look like they've stepped out of a Left Bank café. The food is
unpretentious yet of a supremely high quality. Try the bistro
classic of steak-frites or the duck, veal or salmon (with beurre
blanc) favourites. Just remember to leave enough room for that créme
brulée.
A Pied de Cochon
536 Ave Duluth Est. Metro: Mont-Royal
Tel: +1 (1)514-281-1114
One of the finest restaurants on Avenue Duluth. As the name suggests
this is a carnivore's paradise. With items on the menu such as pork
rings, deer tongue and smoked fish you would be forgiven for
thinking the cuisine would be hearty but simple. Not at all. French
country classics such as andouillette (sausage) and confit de canard
are given a modern makeover, the taste combinations are subtle and
original and the overall impression is that of fine dining rather
than rustic cooking.
Bonaparte
443 Rue Saint-Francois-Xavier. Metro: Place d'Armes
Tel: +1 (1)514-844-1448
As befitting the name, this is a decidedly French style restaurant
in the heart of old Montreal. The cuisine is not startlingly
original but is typically based on recipes from provincial France
and there are seasonal menus available. There are three dining
rooms, decorated in classical rural French style reminiscent of a
country auberge. Bonaparte is popular with visitors to the city. A
good choice for a meal in a romantic old town location.
Steakhouses
Moishe's
3961 Boulevard St Laurent. Metro: Sherbrooke
Tel: +1 (1)514-845-3509
The original and best of Montreal's many steakhouses. Run by a
Jewish family since 1938, Moishe's serves steaks, chops, and grilled
fish with traditional hospitality. Also has a fine wine selection.
Italian
Buonanotte
3518 Boulevard St Laurent. Metro: St Laurent
Tel: +1 (1)514-848-0644
This distinctive modern Italian restaurant and bar is highly visible
on the Main thanks to its thatched, illuminated canopy of branches
over the entrance. Inside, the clean, neat interior provides an
ideal ambience to sample their adventurous interpretation of modern
Italian cuisine. The wine list is Italian, extensive and renowned.
The atmosphere really gets going later in the evening when the bar
fills up, the DJ starts to play and trendy Montrealers party away
until three in the morning.
Il Mulino
236 Rue St-Zotique Est, Little Italy
Tel: +1 (1)514-273-5776
As you might expect, Little Italy is the place to head for Italian
food in the city. Although there isn't much to choose between
several good restaurants here, if you have to choose one Il Mulino
is a favourite with people in the know. It's neither the busiest
restaurant in the area, nor the easiest to find, which might explain
it's popularity with people seeking a quiet meal, difficult to find
in an area dominated by exuberant Italians.
Vegetarian/Thai
Chu Chai
4088 rue Saint-Denis. Metro Sherbrooke/Mont Royal
Tel: +1 (1)514-843-4194
Wonderful, creative Thai vegetarian cuisine. All the Thai classics
faithfully replicated, including excellent Tom Yum soups, stir fries
and curries and at first glance all the menus seem to offer meat
dishes. However, all the meat dishes are tofu replicas, tasting and
looking unbelievably realistic. The result? Chu Chai is patronised
by carnivores and veggies alike. It's been so successful that the
restaurant's now opened a café next door called 'Chuc' - offering a
similar menu but more informal ambience, including allowing patrons
to bring their own wine.
Mexican
Three Amigos
1657 rue St Catherine Ouest. Metro: Guy-Concordia
Tel: +1 (1)514-939-3329
Typical, manic Mexican themed bar and restaurant. The food tends to
be more Tex-Mex than genuine Mexican, although it is good value and
the portions are hearty. Feast on enchiladas, burritos and tacos
while quenching your thirst with some of the best margaritas and
daiquiris from the bar. Live music played on weekends, good bar
atmosphere, especially during happy hours.
Chinese
Aux delices de Szechuan
1735 Rue St Denis. Metro: Berri-Uqam
Tel: +1 (1)514-844-5542
Popular, dimly lit Chinese restaurant in the Latin Quarter. Well
known for its seafood dishes which are excellent with tangy satay
sauce. Specialist in Szechuan cuisine, therefore many of the dishes
are robustly spicy, especially the soups. Friendly, distinguished
service provides a refined dining environment.
Portuguese
Chez Doval
150 Rue Marie-Anne Est. Metro: Mont-Royal
Tel: +1 (1)514-843-3390
Located near to Boulevard St Laurent on a very quiet street in the
heart of the city's Portuguese community. The interior décor is
classically Portuguese, comprising two small rooms decorated with
ceramic tiling and a cosy local bar area. The cuisine features
classics such as grilled fish, mussels and stuffed olives. There are
good tapas like starters on offer. Wash your meal down with a glass
or two of Vinho Verde. Recently voted the best Portuguese restaurant
in the city by Montreal Mirror readers.
Japanese
Mikado
1731 Rue St Denis. Metro: Berri-Uqam
Tel: +1 (1)514-844-5705
A great value sushi restaurant and bar, Mikado is one of a chain of
restaurants in Montreal. This example in its Latin Quarter location
produces the freshest and most inventive sushi rolls. Look out for
the kamikaze Maki rolls. Platters of sushi and sashimi can be had
inexpensively and are best washed down with the sake. Miso soups are
also excellent here.
Breakfast
Chez Cora Dejeuners
Various locations, including: 1017 Rue Ste Catherine Est
Tel: +1 (1)514-285-2672
Breakfast throughout North America is an institution, and visitors
should definitely head out to a classic diner for their morning fare
at least once during a stay in Montreal. The Chez Cora chain of
dedicated breakfast restaurants was founded by Madame Cora in Quebec
15 years ago. All the breakfast classics served, pancakes with maple
syrup, bacon and eggs and mounds of fresh fruit, in a wide-awake
atmosphere. An excellent pick-you-up ollowing a long Montreal night
out.
Bars
You could attribute it to the French joie de vivre or the long
winter months but one thing is certain, Montrealers know how to
party. When they hit the town they are blessed with an enormous
range of drinking establishments that stay open until 03h00. Bars,
pubs, martini lounges, jazz bars, and live venues abound. The best
way to sample the atmosphere is to head out to one of the below
areas and take your pick.
The Rue St Denis / Avenue de Mont-Royal axis on the Plateau has many
small bars and cocktail lounges. The distinction between café,
restaurant and bar here is often not great with many establishments
combining elements of all three. Boulevard St Laurent has some of
the liveliest bars and clubs around the Prince Arthur intersection.
The lower end of Rue St Denis around Berri-Uqam metro is known as
the Latin Quarter and has a good mix of students and Quebecois
theatre-goers. Rue Ste Catherine is as lively at night time as
during the day, the Eastern end past Berri Metro is known as the
'Village' and is home to many gay bars and clubs, while from Berri
Westwards to Atwater are good pubs and sports bars.
Old Montreal provides a sedate, relaxed drinking environment with
local restaurants and cafés. Rue Crescent (Metro Guy-Concordia) is
the English speaking district with lively pubs and clubs appealing
to professionals. Below are some recommendations of bars that are
typical of their genre.
Peel Pub
1107 Rue Ste Catherine Ouest. Metro: Peel
Tel: +1 (1)514-844-6769
A cavernous basement sports bar that is one of Montreal's classic
meeting places. Packed after work with students and office workers
taking advantage of huge pitchers of beer on offer for CAD5.99 from
15h00-19h00 daily. Loud, raucous atmosphere, especially during
sporting events. Exceptionally cheap bar food with daily specials.
Live music on weekends.
McKibbens
1426 Rue Bishop. Metro: Guy-Concordia
Tel: +1 (1)514-288-1580
A good Irish pub located in the basement of this three-floor
pub/club complex. The pub has a good selection of ales, stouts and
local beers. The menu is excellent with a peculiar but successful
combination of Irish and Cajun cooking. Live music played at
weekends. The 2nd floor is the cheesy Toucan club.
Les Trois Brasseurs
1658 Rue St Denis. Metro: Berri-Uqam
Tel: +1 (1)514-845-1660
A brew-pub that is part of a French chain. The locally brewed beers
are excellent with the wheat beer and the pilsner particular
highlights. The brick interior and brass piping lend it a relaxed
brewery ambiance. The food menu highlights flammenkuche, Alsatian
style pizza as well as mussels and fries. Just inside the entrance
is a barrel of unshelled peanuts for patrons to snack on. Drop the
shells on the floor!
Sir Winston Churchill Pub Complex
1459 Rue Crescent. Metro: Guy-Concordia
Tel: +1 (1)514-288-3814
Downstairs in the basement, Sir Winston's Pub is a frenetic meeting
place for English-speaking Montrealers. The huge bar leads back
towards a dance floor where many Montreal couples met for the first
time. Upstairs, Winnies restaurant and bar serves reasonable food.
The terrace area is popular in summer and provides a perfect people
watching opportunity over the poseurs of Crescent Street.
Club Lounge Altitude 737
1 Place Ville Marie Niveau PH2. Metro: McGill
Tel: +1 (1)514-397-0737
Located 737 feet above ground level at the top of Montreal's
original skyscraper, 737 is a bar, a lounge, a massive disco/club
and a refined restaurant. Could there be a better location to sip a
martini at night, overlooking the city of Montreal and the majestic
St Lawrence River? The laser beams emitted from this club can be
seen all over the city. In summer revellers dance all night in the
open air on the roof. The restaurant serves a high quality fusion of
Japanese and French Cuisine.
Jello
151 Rue Ontario Est. Metro: St Laurent
Tel: +1 (1)514-285-2621
With the largest selection of martinis in Montreal, Jello was the
pioneer of the lounge bar scene. Chill out on the couches and listen
to the live music held every night. R&B, funk, groove, salsa and
swing are all featured. The most mellow bar in town.
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