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Ballsbridge
The
elegant charm of southeast Dublin stands as a testament to Georgian
urban design. Amongst the throngs of tourists is the exquisite
Merrion Square complete with beautiful central gardens and a
wonderful memorial to Oscar Wilde, who lived in the square in his
youth. Other alumni of the Square include W.B. Yeats, Joseph
Sheridan Le Fanu and the great Liberator himself, Daniel O'Connell.
More recently, the British Embassy occupied the east side of Merrion
Square until it was burned to the ground in 1972 in the aftermath of
the Bloody Sunday killings in Derry. Nearby, Fitzwilliam Square is
much smaller and more intimate and is the best preserved of Dublin's
great set-piece Georgian squares.
A few minutes walk west brings one to the lovely open space that is
St Stephen's Green, which undoubtedly forms the centrepiece of
18th-century Dublin's impressive town planning. Many notable
buildings surround the Green, including the Royal College of
Surgeons, still pockmarked with bullets from the 1916 Easter Rising,
and the Shelbourne, Dublin's original posh hotel and still the best
spot for afternoon tea in the city. Newman House, two Georgian
townhouses on the south side of the Green which were the original
home of University College Dublin, have been superbly restored, and
today their fantastic internal decorations can be seen in all their
splendour. The central gardens of the Green feature a lake and many
statues, including tributes to Yeats and Countess Marcievicz. The
statue of Wolfe Tone in the southwest corner of the Green was blown
up by loyalist terrorists in 1979. Once his head was (luckily)
discovered by the Shelbourne hotel, the statue was reconstructed.
Grafton Street runs into the northeastern corner of the Green and is
a shopper's paradise, but in your purchasing frenzy don't forget the
National Gallery, National Museum or Leinster House, home of the
Irish parliament (Dail Eireann), which are all of enormous cultural
interest.
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