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Best in 3 Days in Amsterdam

Day 1

Passing through the painting gallery of the Historisch Museum brings you to the entrance of the Begijnhof, a blissfully peaceful courtyard oasis. Behind the Begijnhof you come to an open square, the Spui, lined with popular sidewalk cafés, and to the Singel, the innermost of Amsterdam's concentric canals. Cut through the canals by way of the romantic Heisteeg alley and its continuation, the Wijde Heisteeg, turning left down the Herengracht to the corner of Leidsegracht. This is part of the prestigious Gouden Bocht, the grandest stretch of canal in town.

Continue down the Herengracht to the Vijzelstraat and turn right to the next canal, the Keizersgracht. Cross the Keizersgracht and turn left to find the Museum van Loon, an atmospheric canal house, still occupied by the family that has owned it for centuries but open to the public. Turn back down Keizersgracht until you reach the very posh Nieuwe Spiegelstraat; take another right and walk toward Museumplein. Rising up in front of you is the redbrick, neo-Gothic splendor of the Rijksmuseum, housing the world's greatest collection of Dutch art, or, for now, at least, its "Best of the Golden Age" selection (with its world-famed Rembrandts and Vermeers) found in the only wing not undergoing massive renovation in the coming years. When you leave the Rijksmuseum, head for Museumplein itself; to your right is Paulus Potterstraat (look for the diamond factory on the far corner), where you'll find the Van Gogh Museum, which contains a unique collection of the artist's work.

Continuing along Paulus Potterstraat, at the corner of Van Baerlestraat, you'll reach what used to be the Stedelijk Museum (the collection of modern art from Picasso to the present is now temporarily housed on the second and third floors of the former Post Group building, close to Centraal Station). Just around the corner of Van Baerlestraat, facing the back of the Rijksmuseum across Museumplein, is the magnificent 19th-century concert hall, the Concertgebouw. A short walk back up along Van Baerlestraat will bring you to the Vondelpark -- acre after acre of parkland -- where you can relax after your day of sightseeing.

Day 2

The most iconic sights in Amsterdam are the grand, crescent-shape waterways of the Grachtengordel (girdle or ring of canals), lined with splendid buildings and pretty, gabled houses. On your second day, take full advantage of these delights -- wander off the main thoroughfares, saunter along the smaller canals that crisscross them, and sample the charms of such historic city neighborhoods as the Jordaan. Begin at busy Dam Square and circle around behind the royal palace to follow the tram tracks into the wide and busy Raadhuisstraat. Once you cross the Herengracht, turn right along the canal; at the bend in the first block you will see the Nederlands Theatermuseum, which occupies two gorgeous 17th-century houses. Return to the Raadhuisstraat and turn right, following it to the Westermarkt. Stop for a fish snack at the stall under the shadow of the tower of the Westerkerk, on the right, facing the next canal. This landmark is Rembrandt's burial place. Make a right past the church and follow the Prinsengracht canal to the Anne Frankhuis, where you can visit the attic hideaway in which Anne Frank wrote her diary.

The neighborhood to your left, across the canal, is the Jordaan, full of curious alleys and pretty canals, intriguing shops, and cafés that are perfect for dinner. At the intersection of the Prinsengracht and Brouwersgracht, turn and take a digestive stroll along the Brouwersgracht, one of the most picturesque canals in Amsterdam. Stop in at one of the Jordaan's charmingly grotty brown cafés for an after-dinner drink, then head back to your hotel via the romantically lighted canal rings.

Day 3

On your third day, start by exploring "Rembrandt's neighborhood," Amsterdam's historic Jewish Quarter. Begin at its heart, Waterlooplein. Today the square is dominated by the imposing modern Muziektheater/Stadhuis (Music Theater/Town Hall), which is surrounded by a large and lively flea market. East of Waterlooplein, on Jonas Daniël Meijerplein, is the Joods Historisch Museum, skillfully converted from a number of old synagogues. Just to the east of that, on the corner of Mr. Visserplein and Jonas Daniël Meijerplein, is the stately Portugees Israelitische Synagoge. Its interior is simple but awe-inspiring because of its vast size and floods of natural light.

Venturing over to the sylvan Plantage neighborhood, you'll find that the varied flora cultivated in the greenhouses of the Hortus Botanicus is just across the canal. Then you might want to make a short diversion to the Verzetsmuseum, which explains the Dutch resistance to the occupying forces, passive and active, during the Second World War. But for something more lighthearted, especially if you have children in tow, proceed to the Artis Zoo (which was attractively laid out in parklike surroundings in the 19th century and has a well-stocked aquarium). Time permitting, take Tram 9 or 14 farther east along Plantage Middenlaan, to the Tropenmuseum, which has riveting displays on tropical cultures and a special children's section.

Alternatively, you can walk from the synagogue up Jodenbreestraat, where -- in the second house from the corner by the Zwanenburgwal -- you'll find the Museum het Rembrandthuis, the mansion where Rembrandt lived at the height of his prosperity, and which now houses a large collection of his etchings. Cross the bridge to St. Antoniesbreestraat and follow it to the Zuiderkerk, whose rather Asian-looking spire is the neighborhood's chief landmark. Take St. Antoniesbreestraat north to Nieuwmarkt. Take Koningsstraat to the Kromboomssloot and turn left, then right at Rechtboomssloot (both pretty, leafy canals), and follow it through this homey neighborhood, the oldest in Amsterdam, to Montelbaanstraat; turn left and cut through to the broad Oude Waal canal. Follow it right to the Montelbaanstoren, a tower that dates back to the 16th century and was often sketched by Rembrandt. Up Kalkmarkt from the tower is Prins Hendrikkade, which runs along the eastern docks.

Following Prins Hendrikkade east, you'll enter the modern world with a bang at the NEMO Science & Technology Center. A little farther on is the Nederlands Scheepvaartmuseum, where there is a fascinating replica of an old Dutch East India ship. Across the bridge on Hoogte Kadijk is the Museum werf't Kromhout, where wooden sailing boats are still restored and repaired. If, on the other hand, you go west along Prins Hendrikkade to Gelderskade, you can see the Schreierstoren, the tower where legend has it that women used to stand weeping and waiting for their men to return from sea. This is where Henry Hudson set sail for America in the 16th century -- so it's a fitting farewell finale for your third day.

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