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Eating Out
Guide to Drinking and Dining in Bangkok

Bangkok is one of the best places in the world in which to eat out and its restaurants are justly famed for their variety and good value. The one thing that is worth mentioning is that the addresses are notoriously hard to pinpoint by yourself. Your best bet is to choose a place and then jump in a cab or a tuk-tuk and mention where you want to go. If you resort to a food hunt you seem to invariably end up at some spurious fast food restaurant - of which there are thousands.

PRICE GUIDE: (average cost of a meal without alcohol):
Venice hotel star rating = less than THB500, Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating = THB500-1000, Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating = more than THB1000

Thai

Baan Khanitha
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
69 South Sathorn Rd, Sathorn
Tel: +66 (0)2-675-4200
If you're looking for authentic and traditional Thai food in suitable surroundings then Baan Khanitha has long proven to be a favourite with Bangkok diners both foreign and Thai. In its own secluded courtyard the restaurant resembles a traditional steep-roofed Thai building. The menu is made up of traditional items, including a very authentic Miang Kam, an appetiser of nuts, limes, chillies and dried prawns, which you wrap yourself in kadok leaves before eating.

Ratchanawi Samosorn
Venice hotel star rating
77 Royal Thai Navy Club
Tha Chang Wang Luang, Na Phralan Rd
Tel: +66 (0)2-623-5659
This restaurant is located inside the Royal Thai Navy Club at Ta Chang Pier. There is no sign in roman script but it is relatively easy to find (entrance is to the right about 50 metres up from the exit of the pier - there is usually a sailor on guard duty). This quite plain dining venue consists of an indoor room which is usually given over to free-for-all karaoke, and an outdoor pier with river views of Wat Arun, Wat Rakhang and the Rama VIII Bridge. The large menu (there is an English version of this) features generous portions of uncompromisingly Thai fare at low prices - hence its popularity with more than just the navy crowd.

Cabbages & Condoms
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
10 Sukhumvit, Soi 12
Tel: +66 (0)2-229-4611 ext331
If the name strikes you as rather strange you should know that part of the profits of this popular restaurant go to the Population and Community Development Association, which promotes awareness among Bangkok's less salubrious quarters, and attempts to control the burgeoning population through education. The attractive garden setting keeps you cool while you dine. Standard Thai dishes such as pad thai are available but you should take the opportunity to try some of the house specialities such as the sea bass with black pepper. Be warned, the portions are huge.

Chinese

Silver Palace
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
5 Soi Pipat, Silom Rd
Tel: +66 (0)2-235-5118
Though it opened in 1983, the décor at Silver Palace is very retro, in a Hong Kong Dim Sum Palace style. As you might guess, Cantonese cuisine is the speciality here. For a very good value meal, try the special lunch and dinner buffets - but make sure your eyes are not bigger than your stomach - leftovers on your plate will be charged for.

Joke Club
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
155/25-29 Sukhumvit, Soi 11
Tel: +66 (0)2-651-2888/9
There's nothing funny about it, "joke" is the Thai for what the Chinese call "congee". An independent restaurant located on the ground floor of the Swiss Park Hotel, it has a Hong Kong chef and serves up Cantonese comfort food including Dim Sum lunches and congee suppers. A separate menu contains some up-market items such as shark's fin and abalone, and it offers a greater choice of desserts than is generally found in Thai - Chinese restaurants. Reasonably priced for a cuisine that, even in Thailand, is not particularly cheap.

Seafood

Seafood Market
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
89 Soi Sukhumvit 24
Tel: +66 (0)2-261-2071
Cavernous, brightly lit and tourist orientated - and depending on your selections from the marketplace it can be pricey by local standards. However, the freshness of the ingredients and quality of the cooking can't be doubted. You pick your own fish from the slabs and tanks, and then take your purchases to your table where the waiter will offer advice and take your order for how you'd like the food cooked. Your fish is then whisked away to the kitchens, and in time reappears on steaming platters.

Somboon
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
169/7-11 Suriwongse Rd
(on the corner of Narathiwat Ratchanakarindra Rd)
Tel: +66 (0)2-233 3104
By Bangkok standards, Somboon is quite a veteran on the restaurant scene, which has grown from its Banthadthong base to include branches on Suriwongse, Ratchada and Sukhumvit 103. None of the branches will ever win kudos for the decor, which consists of brightly lit refectories with utilitarian furnishings and unadorned walls. But nobody cares, they are here for the seafood and they are usually here for it in large numbers. The fame of the curry fried crab has spread beyond the borders of Thailand, putting it onto the dining itineraries of other East/South-East Asian visitors. Freshness is guaranteed with various crustaceans and fish coming straight from the aquariums and a brisk turnover of business. Informal dining - but no shorts, and cash only.

Japanese

Aoi
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
132/10-11 Silom Soi 6
Tel: +66 (0)2-235-2321
&
4th floor, Emporium Shopping Complex
Tel: +66 (0)2-664-8590
Sense the serenity and simple elegance of Imperial Kyoto at both branches of this popular Japanese restaurant. The large expat Japanese community is drawn to it as if to a magnet, the highest possible recommendation. Plus you don't have to break the bank to eat here - you'll be surprised at just how friendly the prices are.

Shin Daikoku
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
32/8 Sukhumvit Soi 19
Tel: +66 (0)2-254-9980
A single storey purpose-built restaurant just around the corner from the Japanese consulate, Shin Daikoku is one of the older examples of it's type in Bangkok with a loyal following. A pond dominates the centre of the restaurant and there are several private Tatame rooms. There is a wide range of dishes covering most of a salient themes of the cuisine such as sushi, sashimi, teppanyaki, teriyaki. Preparation is authentic using a mix of locally caught and imported seafood and meats. The lunchtime bento boxes are remarkable value at around USD6 for a complete meal. It's quite easy to get of lightly here with the regular menu, depending on choice - the bill can steeply rise paticulary if opting for imported delicacies. There is a satisfactory selection of sake on offer.

Indian

Planet Bollywood
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
13 Sathorn Soi 1, South Sathorn Rd
Tel: +66 (0)2-677-6249
Located next to the Indian Chamber of Commerce, this trendy Indian eatery with its tongue-in-cheek title glows under its orange colour scheme. An outsize TV next to the bar plays suprisingly sexy musical numbers from the Bollywood movie mill. Matching the modern decor, the menu features a balanced choice of fresh and tangy dishes deftly and lightly executed by chefs imported from India. Portions are quite generous and the price very keen given both quality and quantity. Conveniently located about 5 minutes walk from the Sathorn Road exit, Lumpini MRT station.

Other Asian

Le Dalat Indochine
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
14 Sukhumvit Soi 23
Tel: +66 (0)2-661-7967
This Vietnamese outlet is housed in a former Thai villa, a sign that it is anything but ordinary. The waiting staff are outfitted as if they were expecting the emperor himself. Fine cuisine is presented in an intimate atmosphere (all the rooms in the villa are given over to the restaurant and none of the dining areas are very large). Dishes reminiscent of other parts of French Asia round out the interesting menu.

Kongju
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
Pathumwan Princess Hotel
444 Phayathai Road
Tel: +66 (0)2-216-3700
Korean for 'Princess' this contempory style restaurant is appropriately located inside the Pathumwan Princess Hotel. There are several independent Korean restaurants around town - most of them modestly decorated neighbourhood affairs - the 'Konju' brings a touch of class that had hitherto been lacking in this category. But class matters little if the food is not up to it. Luckily it is. Tables are equipped with built-in barbeques if you want try your own hand as chef with the meats and seafood on offer and there are around 50 different varieties of Kimchi to accompany it. There is a selection of rice, noodle and soup dishes, along with particular specialities if you'd rather leave the cooking to the specialists.

Cafe de Laos
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
16 Silom Soi 19
Tel: +66 (0)2-635-2338
Another conversion of a well-to-do residence off Silom Road, with a choice of seating indoors or in the garden. Lao food and Thai food may appear quite similar but this may be due to the penetration of North-eastern Thai cooking, which is mainly Lao in nature, onto the regular Thai menu. The most well-known dish is Som Tam, a spicy salad that generally features grated unripe papaya as the main ingredient, but there are several other refreshing variations here. Being land-locked it is river fish that provide much of the protein - try the snakehead baked in bamboo, the flesh is delicate and has a slightly smkoy flavour. You can also whip up your own hotpot at your table from a spicy stock, adding various types of meat or seafood along with fresh herbs, noodle and egg.

Bali Restaurant
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
153 Soi Ruam Rudi, Sukhumvit
Tel: +66 (0)2-250-0711
No doubt about what you can expect to get here. Soi Ruam Rudee is a quiet, village-like lane in the business and embassy district, where all the old villas now seem to serve as upscale eateries. Bali makes neat use of its setting and offers Indonesian home cooking, one of very few places where a range of dishes from the Malay world can be found.

International

Ma Be Ba
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
93 Soi Lang Suan
Tel: +66 (0)2-254-9595
Italian appears to be Thailand's "other" cuisine, with many restaurants flourishing in Bangkok and around the country. Scarcely a month passes without another outlet opening. The hip and fun Ma Be Ba opened on trendy Soi Lang Suan in 2000, but despite its none too serious looks it has established a reputation for fine and unpretentious Italian standards, and sublime gelati. There's also an excellent bakery on the premises.

Le Bouchon
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
37/17 Patpong Soi 2, Surawongse
Tel: +66 (0)2-234-9109
An image of good dining is perhaps not one which is conjured up by a Patpong address - but reserve your judgement. Along with Café De Paris on the same soi, Francophiles here have two of the best and least expensive options in the city for down-to-earth French country cooking. Both restaurants are small and uncomplicated and trade well on their local reputation - often overlooked by the hordes of tourists milling around.

Athena
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
594 Soi Ekamai, Sukhumvit Soi 63
Tel: +66 (0)2-392-7644
With the opening of Athena in late 2001, a gap in the pantheon of cuisines available to Bangkokians has been filled. This small but sunny little slice of the Mediterranean down a Sukhumvit soi offers a large range of Greek dishes - just as well since it is the only place in the city they can be found. Saturdays are plate-smashing nights, reserve ahead for dinner.

The Cedar
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
4/1 Sukhumvit Soi 49/1
Tel: +66 (0)2-391-4482
Over a quarter of a century old, this Lebanese restaurant is the Grande Dame of the Middle Eastern dining scene in Bangkok, and still the best. Waiters in fezzes present the menu, including at least two dozen different types of mezze - which can form a meal in itself without going on to the hearty main dishes or rich Arabian desserts.

Trader Vic's
Venice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star ratingVenice hotel star rating
Bangkok Marriott Resort and Spa, 257/1-3 Charoen Nakhon
Tel: +66 (0)2-476-0022
As if the riverside setting was not enough, inside more water flows through an indoor jungle, which is breached by a great sailing ship. This exotic setting forms the theatre in which Polynesian cuisine plays a major role, with a supporting cast of tropical punches and rum cocktails. You might feel you are an extra in an out-take from an Indiana Jones epic, but after a couple of Fogcutters (Trader Vic's trademark cocktails) you probably won't care.

Bars

Bangkok's bar scene blurs into both the restaurant and entertainment categories with all providing some form of sustenance other than alcohol, and several hosting live entertainment in the evenings. Bars are less prevelant than restaurants, but are an impressive mixture of styles, allowing you to drink your way round the world. However before you begin, you should note that drinking out in Thailand is as costly as it is in Western Europe, though this is offset by lower prices for dining.

By no stretch of the imagination could Bangkok pass for an English village, but it has certainly adopted a few pubs that wouldn't look out of place back in Britain. The Bull's Head (595/10-11 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1. Tel: +66 (0)2-259-4444) is about as near to a traditional pub as you can get in Thailand, with its wood panelled ground floor and hunting scenes on the placemats. Its down-to-earth pub grub, including Sunday roasts, also scores highly amongst expats. The Bull's stablemate, The Barbican (9/4-5 Soi Thaniya, Silom. Tel: +66 (0)2-234-3590), on the other hand is all modern chic, with polished pine and chrome, and an up to date menu. With a window seat you can watch the goings-on on Soi Thaniya, lined wth bars where the Japanese businessmen come for their entertainment.

Ireland is another country with a fine reputation for bars, and the Irish bar is the most successful export from the Emerald Isle. The Irish X Change (formerly Shenanigans) is the successor to Delaney's (the first such bar to open in Bangkok) with Guinness on tap and Irish stew on the menu. Located on Silom this bar gets busy in the early evenings as the more affluent business types while away a couple of hours until the traffic eases off.( Evenings are more lively with traditional Irish music on offer. The Dubliner is located by Washington Square, near the Mambo Cabaret. This bar on three floors has gained a reputation for its bar food. (440 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: +66 (0)2-266-1841-2).

If you're hankering after a Guinness, what better complement than a dozen oysters? Witch's Oyster Bar in Ruam Rudee village has a full menu of dishes based around the popular mollusc, as well as other high-end seafood dishes. The kitchen here will also rustle up more traditional pub grub such as steak and kidney pie, and a very good version of the all time favourite fish 'n chips. (Tel: +66 (0)2-251-9455).

The British Isles are not the only place with a brewing tradition. Germany is also noted for its huge contribution to that field, and over the past few years several microbreweries have opened their doors in Bangkok. However, "Micro" is perhaps not the right word for the Tawan Daeng German Brewery (462/61 Rama III Rd. Tel: +66 (0)2-678-1114) - with its capacity of 1,300 it could be mistaken for an aircraft hangar. There's a large stage too, featuring nightly live music. There is a selection of freshly brewed German style beers and more than a few flavours of German cuisine on the menu, though it's mainly Thai. Despite the size, this place is usually quite busy on any given day. Moving further east, Mingles at the Amari Atrium Hotel offers a selection of stronger spirits at its Vodka Bar. Served ice cold in shot glasses, you can dispose of the glass cossack-style, by dashing it into the fireplace. (New Petchburi Rd. Tel: +66 (0)2-718-2000).

Crossing Sukhumvit you arrive in New Orleans in the shape of the Bourbon Street Bar and Restaurant. Nestled in Washington Square this long-time favourite has a loyal following who come for the Cajun/Creole cuisine, including gumbo, crawfish and jambalaya. (Washington Sq, 29/4-6 Sukhumvit. Tel: +66 (0)2-259-0328/9). We end this journey in New York, or rather the Q Bar, which took its inspiration from the lounge-bars of the Big Apple. Drinkers will be delighted by the comprehensive list of beverages available. Star spotters will be equally delighted by the opportunities of glimpsing local and international celebrities who are frequent customers. There is a cover charge on the weekends (it includes two drinks), but every night there is musical entertainment. (34 Sukhumvit Soi 11. Tel: +66 (0)2-252-3274).
Another feature of the Bangkok drinking scene are the outdoor beer gardens, great and small, that pop up all over town during the cooler months (roughly from December - March). One large venue at the Lumphini Night Bazaar has overcome the vagaries of climate and the rains by introducing a retractable 'ceiling' and thus can operate year-round. Typical of this type of outfit, customers firstly must purchase coupons (unused ones are redeemable so long as they are returned on the same day) then find a table. A variety of stalls hawking food to enjoy with beer, from Thai fried chicken and seafood to pizzas and kebabs with quite a lot inbetween, are ranged down one side of the garden. Purveyors of the amber nectar are lined along the opposite side although it is hardly ever necessary to visit them as there is a bevvy of skimpily attired young ladies representing various brands who'll compete eagerly for those coupons without you having to leave your seat. Prices for imported brews such as German Weissbiers are very keen here, cheaper than can be had at a restaurant. A stage up front hosts a couple of bands each evening, mainly Thai pop for this venue is very popular with the Thai crowd. Tourists can rest their feet for a while and down a pint before exploring the bazaar next door, or taking in a bout at the nearby Lumphini Boxing Stadium. Lumpini Night Bazaar, Rama IV and Witthayu Roads (opposite Lumpini Park).

 

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