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Best of New Orleans in 5 Days
Day 1: The
French Quarter
Start by getting to know the city's most famous neighborhood. Sure,
it's a cliché, but the café au lait and beignets at Café du Monde
are a good place to begin, followed by a stroll around Jackson
Square and St. Louis Cathedral. Cross the seawall and take in the
views of the Mississippi River from Woldenberg Riverfront Park.
Wander along North Peters Street to the shops and market stalls in
the French Market, followed by a stroll around the mostly
residential Lower Quarter. After lunch, explore the antique stores
and art galleries on Royal and Chartres streets, winding it all up
with a cocktail in a shady courtyard; try Napoleon House, an
atmospheric bar and café that makes a mean Pimm's Cup, or the French
Quarter mainstay Pat O'Brien's. Save Bourbon Street for later in the
evening; like anything that's lived hard and been around as long,
it's much more attractive in low light.
Day 2: Uptown
& the Garden District
The St. Charles Avenue streetcar rumbles past some of the South's
most prized real estate; take a seat in one of the antique wooden
seats, raise a window and admire the scenery on the way to leafy
Audubon Park. Follow the paved footpath to the Audubon Zoo, keeping
an eye out for the zoo's white tigers, a pair of albino brothers
named Rex and Zulu. Board an inbound Magazine Street bus near the
zoo entrance and take it to just past Napoleon Avenue, where a
number of restaurants, some with sidewalk tables, are clustered.
Continue on Magazine to Washington Avenue and head left through the
Garden District. Prytania Street, just past Lafayette Cemetery No. 1
(Anne Rice fans, take note), is a good axis from which you can
explore the neighborhood's elegant side streets. Catch a
Downtown-bound streetcar on St. Charles, or wrap up the afternoon
shopping and dining on Magazine.
Day 3:
Remembering Katrina
It may strike some as macabre, but touring the neighborhoods
devastated by Hurricane Katrina and its subsequent floods has become
a ritual for many visitors, not unlike the hordes that have made
Ground Zero in Lower Manhattan a pilgrimage site. You can opt for a
guided bus tour, which takes you to Lakeview and the infamous 17th
Street Canal levee breach; some companies also travel to the Ninth
Ward and Chalmette. After a somber tour of Katrina's devastation, a
good antidote is to look for signs of renewal and rebirth. City
Park, which sustained extensive wind and flood damage, has reopened
its stately botanical gardens; nearby stands the venerable New
Orleans Museum of Art and the adjacent Sydney and Walda Besthoff
Sculpture Garden. Wrap the day up with dinner and live music
downtown at one of the clubs on Frenchmen Street, in the Faubourg
Marigny neighborhood, where the city's diehard party spirit soldiers
on.
Day 4: Art,
History & Culture
Dedicate one day to a deeper exploration of the city's cultural
attractions. Art lovers shouldn't miss the Warehouse District, where
a pair of fine museums -- the Ogden Museum of Southern Art and the
Contemporary Arts Center -- anchors a vibrant strip of contemporary
art galleries, most of which feature local artists. History buffs
will want to check out the National D-Day Museum, also in the
Warehouse District, and the Historical Collection of New Orleans in
the French Quarter, which hosts changing exhibits in a beautifully
restored town home. New Orleans music aficionados can browse the
bins at the Louisiana Music Factory, which has a wide selection of
CDs, and occasional in-store performances, by Louisiana musicians.
Day 5: Heading
Out of Town
Consider a day trip out of town to one of the region's elegant
plantation homes, a trip to Cajun Country, or a guided swamp tour.
Some tour companies offer a combination, with lunch included. Many
of the antebellum mansions between New Orleans and Baton Rouge have
been painstakingly restored and filled with period furniture; nature
lovers will want to set aside time to explore the grounds and lush
flower gardens. Swamp tours may sound hokey, but they're actually a
good way to see south Louisiana's cypress-studded wetlands (and get
up close and personal with the alligators and other critters who
live there). Continue the nautical theme in the evening with a ride
to Algiers Point aboard the Canal Street ferry for sunset views of
the New Orleans skyline.
Tips
Call ahead for hours and days of operation. Several months after
Katrina, many businesses still had not returned to their full
pre-storm schedules. The city has a lot to offer, but some patience
and understanding is called for while it rebuilds.
If you're venturing out in your own vehicle, be aware that street
conditions, which weren't great to begin with, are still in
disrepair in some places. Traffic signals can be erratic, and debris
and roofing nails left behind by contractors can be hazardous to
tires.
Summers in New Orleans arrive early and stick around longer than
most people would like. If visiting in the hot months, stay
hydrated, limit your midday outdoor activities and be prepared for
sudden, sometimes violent downpours.
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